Just like temperamental weather, parmigiana di melanzane is all about layers: aubergine, tomato sauce and cheese (mozzarella, scamorza, caciocavallo and often parmesan, too). The “parm” does not, as I thought for many years, refer to the inclusion of parmesan cheese.
According to Sicilian Food: Recipes from Italy’s Abundant Isle, by Mary Taylor Simeti, it refers to palmigiana, which means shutters in Sicilian. One day, as someone somewhere in Sicily arranged slices of fried aubergine, corners overlapping corners, they were reminded of wooden shutters and their overlapping slats. However, as Sicilians struggle to pronounce the letter “l”, their creation became parmigiana di melanzane instead. This could of course be one of the many gastronomic tales that are passed around like Chinese whispers, but, true or not, the idea of shutters is a useful one in terms of construction, reminding us how the fried slices should be arranged.
The first question with this dish is whether to fry or not to fry. Fry, fry, fry is almost always my answer, especially when it comes to aubergine slices for parmigiana. This is primarily because I like the thick, velvet-like texture and deep flavour that is created by letting slices dance around a pan of hot olive oil until light golden in colour and ever so slightly crisp.
Second, when aubergine is immersed completely in hot oil (olive or vegetable), the cooking time is reduced and with it the amount of fat absorbed. Door open wide, shower cap on, I fry in a deep frying pan, heating two inches of oil until a cube of bread dances around the pan with a coat of bubbles. I fry four large aubergines sliced into 3mm rounds in batches, and, once golden, lift them on to a tray lined with plenty of kitchen paper to drain. I have discovered that this is a task that takes exactly the same amount of time as two back-to-back episodes of Desert Island Discs.
For a leaner version in both spirit and flavour, the slices can be brushed with olive oil and roasted in the oven or seared on a grill pan, until soft and branded with dark lines.
Whether you choose to fry, bake or grill, while the aubergine slices rest, cut 400g mozzarella into thin, scraggy slices (or simply shred it), grate 150g parmesan and tip 300ml smooth tomato sauce into a bowl. This can be your own sauce or a good-quality passata from a jar, or a tin of peeled plum tomatoes passed through a food mill and seasoned with salt and ripped basil.
Now it’s all about making layers in an oven-proof dish – a 40cm x 27cm Pyrex one is ideal. Start with a layer of aubergine, the corners overlapping slightly like shutters, followed by a smear of tomato sauce, some ripped basil leaves, mozzarella and parmesan. Repeat this sequence of layers until you have used up all the ingredients, ending with a layer of aubergine. The top will need a thick carpet of grated parmesan and some breadcrumbs, too, if you like, plus a zigzag of olive oil.
The resting is as important as the cooking. Once the parmigiana has been baked at 180C (160C fan)/gas 4 for 30 minutes, leave to sit for at least a couple of hours and up to 12. It is the same principle here as with lasagne; when served straight from the oven, it will be a soft and sloppy affair, the considerable heat blinding the flavour. Resting will not only develop the flavour, it will also allow the melted mozzarella and parmesan to settle and firm up into a coherent whole.
I often make a shutter-like parmigiana in the morning for the evening, or in the evening for the next day. When it’s time to eat, I give the parmigiana another 10 minutes in the oven and a few more under the grill, until the top bubbles madly. Green salad with red-wine vinegar is a good partner for a square of this, on the same plate if you’re English (me) or on a separate one if you’re Italian.
Parmigiana di melazane
Prep 20 min
Drain 24 hr
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4-6
400g mozzarella
4 large aubergines (approx 1 kg)
Olive or vegetable oil, for frying
300ml tomato sauce or passata
150g parmesan, grated
Basil
The day before, put the mozzarella in a sieve over a bowl and drain for 24 hours. The next day, cut the mozzarella into thin, shaggy slices. Slice the aubergine into 3mm-thick rounds.
In a small, deep frying pan, heat two inches of oil until hot and fry the aubergine slices in batches, turning, until they are golden brown on both sides. Lift onto a baking tray lined with kitchen towel to drain. If you want to bake the aubergine, brush the slices with oil, sprinkle with a little salt and lay on a baking tray. Roast at 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 for 30 minutes, or until browned and tender. To griddle, brush the aubergine slices with oil, sprinkle with a little salt and cook in a hot griddle pan until soft and branded with dark lines.
In a 40cm x 27cm pyrex dish, lay a base of aubergine slices, smear over some of the tomato sauce or passata, scatter over a quarter of the mozzarella, some grated parmesan and ripped basil. Repeat the layers until you have used up all of the ingredients, ending with a layer of auberinge. Sprinkle over the last of the parmesan and zigzag with olive oil.
Bake at 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 for 30 minutes, then leave to rest for at least three and up to to 12 hours. When you are ready to eat, reheat the parmigiana in a warm oven for 10 minutes, finishing under the grill until bubbling, if you wish.
